Kyrgyzstan at the very forefront of the “last frontier” when it comes to motorcycle touring, a place so new to tourism that Lonely Planet doesn’t have a guide book on it, yet! Deep within Central Asia this incredible country offers bikers an unparalleled diversity of towering snow-capped peaks, stunning alpine valleys, fast flowing glacial rivers, disappearing traditions from Genghis Khan’s time and this just scratches the surface.

Mountains; forget the Himalayas 90% of Kyrgyzstan lies somewhere between 1500 & 7000 metres.

Beachside resorts: don’t follow the crowds to Bali, Kyrgyzstan has a happening beach scene, amazing when you think it is a landlocked country, but it is home to the 2^nd largest alpine lake in the world.

High mountain passes: forget struggling behind broken down Tatas that limp up lofty mountain passes in the Himalayas spewing out smoke, the Kyrgyz passes we ride are utterly devoid of traffic, let alone trucks!

Unique accommodations: forget flea bitten “hostels” or lodges, we stay in homestays, traditional ger camps located in awe inspiring locations & wonderful Soviet era hotels.

Here’s what those lucky & adventurous riders had to say after this years Kyrgyzstan Explorer.

“Having been on the inaugural 2017 trip this is a must do adventure. Compass and the team took me on a trip of a life time to a special part of the world unknown to most” – Bob

“Fantastic, fantastic, fantastic” – Lucille

 “The Kyrgyzstan trip is absolutely amazing! Simply awesome” – Rosemary

Our good friends at Adventure Rider Magazine had this fantastic article in their December edition:

When Ryan Heath said he was going to Kyrgyzstan there was an assumption any place whose name ended with ‘stan’ wasn’t a travel destination of choice. It just shows how wrong assumptions can be.

Words: Ryan Heath. Images: Mick McDonald.

Formally part of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan gained its independence in 1991. It’s a small, landlocked nation that forms part of the Silk Road and its absolutely spectacular — 6500m snow-capped peaks, blue alpine lakes, lush green valleys dotted with yurts, glacier-fed streams and welcoming locals.

Travel bookshops aren’t bursting with Kyrgyzstan books or city destination guides to Bishkek or Osh, but despite its non-existent reputation, it’s where Mick McDonald and I found ourselves, ready for a 14-day motorcycle tour in Central Asia. Mick, Compass Expeditions’ founder, was lucky enough to be in charge of one of the support vehicles.

Our starting location was Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second city, sitting in the lush Ferghana Valley. Given the country is largely mountainous, the Ferghana Valley is the country’s breadbasket. It also boasts one of the largest bazaars in Central Asia.

Gosh. Osh

The first day of the tour saw us introducing the riders to the XT600s and 660 Ténérés, perfect bikes for the rugged conditions, and heading southeast towards the Tajikistan border. Early in the day the ascent to the 2389m peak of Chyyrchyk Pass had everyone greeted by smiling locals who were happy to pose for photos. From there we dropped down into the valley and through the town of Gulcha, stopping beside a raging, glacierfed river to enjoy our first Compass lunch, transported to the spot in the support vehicles.

After the sedate nature of the pavement the return trip to Osh was strictly dirt, alongside the Kurshab River through incredible canyons and along twisting paths. The amazing scenery unfolded as we crossed narrow bridges over the raging torrent below. Slowly the canyon widened into the fertile Ferghana

Unique

The next day kicked off with early Osh-city traffic chaos as the group left the city and climbed towards Jalal-Abad.

After the liberal traffic rules and bitumen of the city it was all dirt riding for an afternoon of unparalleled beauty, including climbing the 3000m Kaldama Pass via a series of switchbacks overlooking green summer pastures surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The heat and traffic chaos of the morning seemed a world away. It was if we were the only people in the world as we slowly snaked our way to the top. From the support vehicle it was a fantastic panorama of 14 motorcycles, strung out like beads on a string, twisting up the rocky path to the summit. The views from the top were breathtaking — and not just because of the altitude.

A taste of Kyrgyz hospitality greeted us for the overnight home stay in Kazarman. The host, Baktygul, provided warm bed and a fine local meal, giving the group a rare glimpse of a real family and a real home, rather than the common, same-in-every-city hotel room.

Jailoos rock

The next day continued to set the bar high for jaw-dropping scenery.

After breakfast we climbed a 2600m pass and spent most of the day at 2000m crossing another 2800m pass in the afternoon. It was twisties for most of the day with sheer, 1000m drops into the valley below. The support vehicle rarely got past second gear as riders stopped for one stunning photo after another.

All day we were greeted by smiling children who lived in the yurt camps — known as ‘Jailoos’ — located in the pasture during the short summer months. It was a special experience and seemed to get better and better as the day unfolded.

Snap shot

The scenery had already delivered in spades, but the next day it went up notch.

Crossing another 2000m pass unveiled the snow-covered panorama of the Bashy Range, part of the mighty Tien Shan Range bordering China.

The day was spent on the dirt again, travelling through picturesque and interesting small towns, and the magnificent, 15th-century Caravanserai monument closed out the day. This shelter, used by Silk Road traders and their animals over the ages, was in remarkable condition. It sits about 3500m above sea level and is half buried in the hillside.

Sunset at the yurt camp was without comparison. The last rays of the day illuminated the ‘Dragon’s Teeth’ mountain spires that towered above a camp bathed in a cascade of colours, brilliant blues, deep browns and lush greens. It was a photographers dream.

Warm reception

The 33 Parrots Pass, so called because the Russian word for ‘fear’ sounds much like the English word ‘parrot; will linger long in the memories of riders on this trip. The gravel road stretched upward, the summit obscured from view at the start of the ascent. The switchbacks were severe, with the path turning back on itself nearly 180 degrees a total of 33 times. The Toyota slowly climbed to the top in granddaddy-low gear.

Sitting at an altitude of just over 3000m, Song Köl is the largest body of fresh water in Kyrgyzstan. Our yurt camp sat lakeside and our arrival was met with soft cheese, hard crackers and smooth red wine. Sunset over the lake was spectacular. When the sun dropped behind the clouds the lake itself changed colour and wild horses ran across the plain as the sun finally dipped behind the horizon.

Later in the evening the hosts lit a bonfire and stories were told as riders bonded over shots of vodka and the mechanic’s home brew from a distillation of 27 plants.

Retiring to the yurts for the evening everyone was pleased to discover the wood-burning stoves had been lit, making the accommodation warm and inviting.

Change

Leaving Song Köl allowed a stop on top of a 3460m pass giving incredible views into the valley below. Winter snow still sat beside the road and some carved messages into the ice and took photos.

Others engaged in a snowball fight.

Leaving the mountains meant the ride was all about the lakes.

We reached the shores of Issyk Kul, the second-largest alpine body of water in the world. The name means ‘warm lake’, so even though it’s surrounded by snowy peaks, it never freezes. Inflatable rings, beach umbrellas and children splashing in the water replaced the yurt camps and alpine peaks of the previous week.

Yurt haven

The next day was spent off the bikes but the adventure didn’t stop.

Early in the morning two former Russian army trucks transported everyone to the alpine valley of Altyn Arashan.

It’s only a 14km trip, but it takes over two hours due to the steep and rocky terrain. The trucks bounced over enormous boulders while hugging a path with steep drops to a raging, freezing river below.

Once at the evening’s yurt camp, some chose to hike the surrounding hills while others indulged in the more relaxing option of a soak in the hot springs to ease muscles still twitching from the truck trip. A rainbow emanated from the mountains of the Chinese border and thunder reverberated down the valley, but the yurts kept everyone warm and dry.

Eagle eye

An ascent of the Jeti-Orghuz canyon kicked off the next morning.

The bikes were parked in front of The Seven Bulls, an outstanding natural rock formation. Most could only count five bulls, but who wants to be a critic in such a beautiful location? The highlight of the day was an eagle-hunting display from Nursaltan, a 21 -year-old, third-generation eagle wrangler.

The display was much more than just a show for the tourists. It was a genuine link to the days of Ghengis Khan, founder of the Mongol Empire, where the practice of eagle hunting is thought to have originated.

Nursaltan first made sure a rider donned a heavy-duty glove, then placed the eagle on the rider’s arm. The eagle was heavy, huge, and looked even bigger when it spread its wings.

After capturing the moment on cameras and iPhones, the eagle was released to seek and pounce on an old fox skin. It was all very dramatic and quite harmless. But then, a live rabbit was placed on the ground and jumped about as the eagle lined him up from a great height and swooped.

He dropped on the unsuspecting animal, spread his wings and sat patiently until the young handler arrived, disentangled the rabbit from the talons, and allowed it to hop away, albeit a bit nervously. No animals were hurt in the demonstration.

Snapped

The following morning was spent riding along the shore of Issyk Kul, winding slowly to the capital Bishkek, where the Compass crew prepared lunch while the group wandered through petroglyphs dating from 1500BC.

After a leisurely lunch and another afternoon of gorgeous, scenic riding, the group wound up at the Oson Hotel in an impossibly beautiful location, deep in the Chychkan Gorge alongside the glacier-fed roaring Chychkan River. But it was the Compass group that proved to be the tourist attraction. An enthusiastic group of locals snapped photos of the bikes and riders, and it was a common reaction everywhere when 14 motorcycles arrived in any village.

This country has yet to be touched by mainstream tourism.

Human resource

The penultimate day meant riding the shores of Toktogul Lake and the banks of the mighty Naryn River through a barren        landscape of red-walled canyons and valleys. It was yet again completely different landscape to everything experienced so far.

A descent into the Ferghana Valley and ride alongside the Uzbek border fence saw the group running the gauntlet of corrupt police with well-hidden speed cameras before climbing to the cooler temperatures of Arslanbob. This almost totally Uzbek-populated village is home to the world’s last remaining relic walnut grove.

The final home stay was a rare delight, including a meal shared with the Uzbek hosts and a night spent in their home before a trip to the walnut grove.

Everyone climbed into ancient Russian-built UAZ 4X4s and bumped and ground up the stony path to the grove, then walked to a panoramic point overlooking the valley and the soaring mountains.

Later was a visit to some waterfalls where the locals gathered under the spray to cool down on hot mornings. The path to the falls was lined with the stalls and attractions of a local market and fair. Colourful jewellery, water pistols, and fruit were all offered for sale, or strength could be tested on a punching bag, darts thrown at balloon or a rope ladder climbed.

It was amazing to finish the trip with a true local experience. Although the mountains and valleys were spectacular the true beauty of this country was in its people. At first glance they seemed quiet and reserved, but they soon revealed themselves to be colourful and hospitable. They’re proud of their country, and rightfully so.

All over

The trip finished with a ride back into Osh in the late afternoon of the 14th day. The ride exceeded expectations both in terms of natural beauty and the hospitality and variety of the people. In a world where Lonely Planet has a guidebook for every location except Kyrgyzstan, this country remains wild, rugged and undiscovered. It’s an epic destination in every sense of the word. Its mountains, switchbacks and people offer the kind of adventure that can be best experienced and enjoyed on a bike.

Riders should grab the opportunity to enjoy Kyrgyzstan while its still in its rugged and untainted state.

Interested in coming next time?! …of course you are! Full details for our Kyrgyzstan Explorer tour can be found here.